Alpine Rock Climbing Classics

Longs Peak – Casual Route

Peak: Longs Peak
Route: Casual Route, the Diamond
Elevation: 14,259’
Rating: IV, 5.10a
Technical Summary: 6 mile approach to North Chimney, 7 miles if rappelling in from Chasm View. +4850’ with technical snow. 8 Diamond pitches plus more in the North Chimney. 10 rappels from Table Ledge or descend the North Face from the summit.
Description: The Diamond—a million square feet of overhanging perfect granite at 14,000’, the motherlode of alpine rock in RMNP and one of the great alpine walls in the world. The Casual Route is sustained, diverse, wonderful, and the easiest route on the wall. It will test all your climbing skills.

Longs Peak – Keyhole

Peak: Longs Peak
Route: Keyhole
Elevation: 14,259’
Rating: Class 3, Moderate snow most of year
Technical Summary: 7.5 miles from trailhead to summit, +4850’. 35-40 degree snow in Trough Couloir, bouldery moves to access the Narrows. Great exposure for a moderate scramble. Descend route.
Description: The easiest and most popular route to the summit of Longs. Crowded but classic. Route spirals the entire mountain, giving 360-degree views of the massif. Frequently underestimated.

Longs Peak – Keyhole Ridge

Peak: Longs Peak
Route: Keyhole Ridge
Elevation: 14,259’
Rating: III, 5.6—rating varies greatly with line chosen.
Technical Summary: 6.5 mile approach, +4850’, easy snow, technical roped scrambling with 2-3 harder pitches, descent via rappels down the North Face or a scramble down the Keyhole proper.
Description: A classic technical ridge climb. You climb the ridge above the Keyhole hordes. More sustained than the North Face, shorter than Kiener’s, one of the best routes to the highest summit in RMNP.

Mt. Ypsilon – Blitzen Ridge

Peak: Mt. Ypsilon
Route: Blitzen Ridge
Elevation: 13,514’
Rating: III, 5.4
Technical Summary: 7 miles trailhead to summit, +5000’. Ridge climb, with cruxes at 4 separate towers and final headwall. Direct line has 5.7 variation. Multiple descent options.
Description: “Rivals the Exum Ridge in position, scale, and quality” – Richard Rossiter. Follows the long, right-hand ridge of the Ypsilon Cirque. Beautiful and non-technical descent.

Notchtop – Spiral Route

Peak: Notchtop
Route: Spiral Route
Elevation: 12,129’
Rating: III, 5.4 to 5.7
Technical Summary: 3 mile approach, +2660’ in elevation to the summit, early season technical snow, 6 pitches & scrambling, descend by 4 rappels or complicated scramble.
Description: A superb route that does, in fact, spiral the peak from south to east to north and summits on the west. Great fun but difficult to keep the grade at 5.4.

Petit Grepon – South Face

Peak: Petit Grepon
Route: South Face
Elevation: 12,713’
Rating: III, 5.8
Technical Summary: 5 mile approach, +2870’, 8 pitches,
complicated descent with 1 rappel to a long scramble or 6 rappels to base of route.
Description: One of the 50 Classics of North America and one of the greatest 5.8s in the world. Amazing climbing, steep yet moderate, takes you to an astonishing summit, 1000’ high and not much larger than an office desk.

Saber – Southwest Corner

Peak: The Saber
Route: Southwest Corner
Rating: III, 5.10a
Technical Summary: 5 mile approach, +3000’, 9 pitches to summit, though some parties rappel after 7 pitches (6 long and complex rappels). Complicated descent from summit.
Description: The longest route in the amazing Cathedral Spires. The first 300’ and the last two pitches are easy, the middle pitches are sustained at 5.9 and awesome. An excellent Diamond preparation climb.

Sharkstooth – Northeast Ridge

Peak: Northeast Ridge
Route: Sharkstooth
Elevation: 12,630’
Rating: II, 5.6
Technical Summary: 5 mile approach, +3350’, early season technical snow, 7 pitches, 3 rappels and scrambling descent.
Description: The best route on the highest of the Cathedral Spires. Many route options but all are moderate and classic.

Spearhead – North Ridge

Peak: Spearhead
Route: North Ridge
Elevation: 12,575’
Rating: III, 5.6
Technical Summary: 6 mile approach, +3300’, overnight bivy often chosen, 8 pitches of climbing to a walk-off descent.
Description: Follows a classic mountaineering ridge & most of the climbing is easier than 5.6.

Spearhead – Syke’s Sickle

Peak: Spearhead
Route: Syke’s Sickle – NE face of Spearhead
Elevation: 12,575’
Rating: IV, 5.9
Technical Summary: 6 mile approach, +3300’, overnight bivy often chosen, 7 pitches of climbing to a walk-off descent.
Description: Climbs directly thru the most visible feature on Spearhead, a huge roof one pitch below the summit. That’s the crux; much of the climbing is 5.7 crack climbing on perfect granite.

Hallett Peak – Culp-Bossier

Peak: Hallet
Route: Culp-Bossier
Elevation:12,713’
Rating: IV, 5.9
Technical Summary: 2.2 mile approach, +3000’, 8 pitches of climbing, easy descent with 2 rappels followed by a moderate scramble.
Description: One of the many great routes on Hallett Peak. Incredibly aesthetic crack and face climbing featuring abundant edges – more sustained and difficult than the Petit.