Mountaineering Classics

Flattop Mountain – Ptarmigan Fingers

Peak: Flattop Mountain
Route: Ptarmigan Fingers
Elevation: 12,324’
Rating: II, AI3, Steep Snow
Technical Summary: 3 mile approach, +2500’ in elevation to the summit, 75 degrees at steepest, 1000’ climb involves a mix of technical short-belays and long pitches. Easy descent.
Description: 3 classic couloirs on the NW face of Flattop Mountain, ideal for developing steep snow and alpine ice techniques. Trail descent from Flattop’s summit.

Longs Peak – Keyhole

Peak: Longs Peak
Route: Keyhole
Elevation: 14,259’
Rating: Class 3, Moderate snow most of year
Technical Summary: 7.5 miles from trailhead to summit, +4850’. 35-40 degree snow in Trough Couloir, bouldery moves to access the Narrows. Great exposure for a moderate scramble. Descend route.
Description: The easiest and most popular route to the summit of Longs. Crowded but classic. Route spirals the entire mountain, giving 360-degree views of the massif. Frequently underestimated.

Longs Peak – Kiener’s Route

Peak: Long’s Peak
Route: Kiener’s Route
Elevation: 14,259’
Rating: II, AI2, 5.3, IV from trailhead
Technical Summary: 6.5 mile approach, +4850’ trailhead to summit. 1000’ snow/ice couloir, very exposed 1000’ traverse, then several pitches of 5th class rock. Finally, another 1000’ of scrambling and easy climbing. Descent via rappelling the North Face.
Description: Classic mountaineering route on Longs Peak, involving rock, snow and alpine ice. Great climbing in an absolutely spectacular setting. Overall length demands fitness. Climbed year round, serious undertaking in winter and spring.

Longs Peak – North Face

Peak: Longs Peak
Route: North Face
Elevation: 14,259’
Rating: II, 5.4, AI2
Technical Summary: 7 miles from trailhead to summit, +4850’. Winter/spring ascent has snow to 45 degrees. A rock scramble in summer with two harder pitches. Descend route (rappels) or Keyhole.
Description: Excellent winter/spring technical route and the most direct line to the summit of Longs Peak. Moderate, enjoyable summit scramble in summer.

Mt. Meeker – Dreamweaver

Peak: Mt. Meeker
Route: Dreamweaver
Elevation: 13,911’
Rating: III, AI3, M2+
Technical Summary: 5.4 mile approach, +4500’, Steep snow/ice couloir, several chockstones provide technical cruxes. Superb 55-degree ice ribbon near top. Descend via Loft.
Description: When in condition (firm snow or ice), this is one of the most aesthetic and enjoyable alpine lines in Colorado. Always interesting, never desperate.

Mt. Ypsilon – Y Couloir

Peak: Mt. Ypsilon
Route: Y Couloir
Elevation: 13,514’
Rating: III, From AI2 to 5.4, AI4
Technical Summary: 7 miles trailhead to summit, +5000’. Harder route takes right branch of couloir. Beware cornice danger. 2 rock pitches in middle section, steep snow (up to 70 degrees) near summit.
Description: Beautiful SE-facing cirque has 2000’ couloir splitting into distinctive Y shape. Both branches good, right harder. Right branch climbs directly to summit. Multiple descent options, long day.

Mt. Ypsilon – Blitzen Ridge

Peak: Mt. Ypsilon
Route: Blitzen Ridge
Elevation: 13,514’
Rating: III, 5.4
Technical Summary: 7 miles trailhead to summit, +5000’. Ridge climb, with cruxes at 4 separate towers and final headwall. Direct line has 5.7 variation. Multiple descent options.
Description: “Rivals the Exum Ridge in position, scale, and quality” – Richard Rossiter. Follows the long, right-hand ridge of the Ypsilon Cirque. Beautiful and non-technical descent.

Taylor Peak – Taylor Glacier

Peak: Taylor Peak
Route: Taylor Glacier
Elevation: 13,153’
Rating: II, AI3, Or Steep Snow
Technical Summary: 5 mile approach, +3750’ Steep snow (60-70 degrees) Or alpine ice in fall. Long Descent over Taylor Peak.
Description: Pure snow/ice line with beautiful views of the Cathedral Spires. Great glissade down Andrews Glacier on descent.