Ice Climbing Classics

RMNP has the best ice climbing in eastern CO and the best alpine ice in the state. RMNP features classic ice cragging areas and a large number of long, hard alpine ice climbs. These multi-pitch alpine climbs tend to be thin and mixed in nature; an incredible skills arena for developing alpinists. Vail offers classic pure water ice and bolt-protected mixed climbs; it is one of the areas where modern mixed climbing was invented.

Black Lake Area – West Gully

Area: Black Lake Area
Route: West Gully
Rating: II, WI4-
Technical Summary: 5 mile approach, +2000’. 3 pitches, short crux on middle pitch, most climbing in WI2-3 range. Walk-off to N or rappel the route.
Description: Classic introduction to multi-pitch ice climbing. A full day in the Park in winter. Some avalanche risk, but often can be minimized by rappelling the route.

Loch Vale – Mixed Emotions

Area: Loch Vale
Route: Mixed Emotions
Rating: I, M5, WI4+
Technical Summary: 2 mile approach, +1000’. Single pitch climb, easily top-roped.
Description: A brilliant mixed route, hard but good for developing mixed skills. Loch Vale is an ideal skills development area-a dozen climbs ranging from WI2 to M8.

Longs Peak – Alexander’s Chimney

Area: Longs Peak
Route: Alexander’s Chimney
Elevation: 14,259’
Rating: IV, AI4, M4
Technical Summary: 6 miles, +2500’ to base of route. 4 pitches, with numerous options on final pitch to Broadway. 3 long rappels to base.
Description: An uncontested RMNP classic. Can be combined with Kiener’s or several other routes to summit Longs (1500’ of alpine climbing), full grade V. Most are very satisfied to climb and rappel Alexander’s.

Longs Peak – Smear of Fear

Area: Longs Peak
Route: Smear of Fear
Elevation: 14,259’
Rating: IV, WI6-M6
Technical Summary: 6 miles, +2500’ to base of route. 3 pitches, all hard, first is hardest and least protected. Rappel descent.
Description: An amazing line of ice on Longs’ lower East Face. Consistently technical and spectacular. Best in early season, October/November.

Mt. Lady Washington – Martha

Area: Mt. Lady Washington
Route: Martha
Elevation: 13,281’
Rating: III, M2+, WI2+
Technical Summary: 5.5 mile approach, +3880’. 1200’ climb, 5-6 pitches, 50-degree snow chutes alternating with ice/mixed bottlenecks. Walk-off descent.
Description: A climb similar in nature to Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker but climbed in the fall and winter. Conditions in bottlenecks can be rock, snow, or ice, extremely variable.

Thatchtop – All Mixed Up

Area: Thatchtop
Route: All Mixed Up
Elevation: 12,688’
Rating: III, WI4
Technical Summary: 3 mile approach, but long if trail not packed, +1600’. 3-4 pitches, last pitch the steepest. Walk off left or rappel route. Moderate avalanche risk.
Description: Beautiful route over cliffs on the NE slopes of Thatchtop. Some years it is thick ice climbing; others it’s all mixed up. Numerous route variations on first 3 pitches, all lead to the perfect WI4 ribbon.

Tyndall Gorge – The Squid

Area: Tyndall Gorge & Emerald Lake
Route: The Squid
Rating: II, WI5
Technical Summary: 2.2 mile approach, +1100’. 2 pitches, M6- start in lean ice years. Rappel descent. Usually best in early season, thru early January.
Description: Awesome pillar in large dihedral, very visible on south-facing cliffs above Emerald Lake.

Designator – Rigid Designator

Area: Designator
Route: Rigid Designator
Rating: I, WI 4-5
Technical Summary: 5 miles, +700’ to base. Single pitch, 50m high, often WI5 on left, WI4 on right. Rappel the route.
Description: The classic ice pillar in CO, a must for all visiting climbers or for those who want to learn to climb steep ice.

Designator – Spiral Staircase

Area: Designator
Route: Spiral Staircase
Rating: I, WI 3-4
Technical Summary: .5 miles, +700’ to base. Single broad flow easily top-roped with 60m rope. Second pitch, similar in difficulty higher up same drainage.
Description: Good introduction to pure water ice climbing. Also can be joined with upper flow to develop multi-pitch skills on ice.