John Bicknell

Certified Rock and Alpine Guide

Unlike most business owners, John spends nearly all his time on rock, ice and snow. His open and approachable demeanor, combined with an analytical and technical approach to climbing, make him a guide who can relate to anyone.

Furthermore, John devotes considerable time and energy to ensuring our leadership in guiding safety and standards. In one of his first actions as CMS owner, John created a fund to help our guides pursue AMGA training and certification. “I strongly believe U.S. guiding needs to become more professional; the AMGA provides that path, and CMS guides are firmly on that path.” He also walks the talk, having completed several AMGA courses, achieved AMGA Rock Guide certification in 1999, and trained extensively in avalanche safety. For most of the 90s John was an EMT, and he’s been involved in the highly regarded American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education since their start. He helps teach AMGA courses, served on their board of directors and was recently elected AMGA president.

Before climbing, John played college baseball at Harvard and three years of pro ‘ball. He then earned a master’s degree from UC Santa Barbara and worked as an earthquake geologist, but found himself increasingly drawn to outdoor adventure. By 1991 he was climbing and guiding full-time. He and his wife, Patty, eventually bought the BRC and CMS.

A father of three, John enjoys working with climbers of all ages and abilities. During his 15 years as an instructor, course director and lead technical trainer for Outward Bound, John has created several new courses involving higher levels of mountaineering and rock climbing. He’s guided in Alaska, Nepal, Mexico, Ecuador, Bolivia, Peru and throughout the lower 48. He’s also climbed in Africa, Canada, France and Switzerland. Wherever he is, all forms of climbing interest him: “Rock, ice, alpine, plastic ? I love it all.”